As someone who cares where my food comes from, and who has no problem accepting that the fluffy animal in the field becomes the meat on my plate, I was really pleased when my partner bought me a voucher for a game butchery course for Christmas. The course took place at the Kings Head in Brooke last Thursday and was certainly an eye opener.
We arrived to an array of game birds, rabbits and hare laid out, intact, and so Nathan, the chef began our morning of learning. First up was how to pluck and prepare a bird. He demonstrated with a wood pigeon, explaining how to age a bird (if its beak is soft it is young; the “thumb” claw on the feet keeps growing throughout their life, so if it’s long you’ve got an old bird), how to pluck it, and how to prepare it for the oven (ie get rid of all the stuff you don’t want to think about!).
Demonstration over, we all took to our stations and we were allocated a bird (a teal for me, as I requested a small one – didn’t fancy holding the weight of a pheasant for as long as it was going to take me to pluck it). I, although happy to accept where my food comes from, am basically squeamish – certainly I could never be a nurse! But plucking the teal was very reassuringly repetitive. It was a task you could lose yourself in, so long as you overlook what you are holding. When it came to removing the giblets etc, I have to admit squeamishness overtook, and another member of our group kindly did the honours.
Next up was a demonstration of how to skin a hare or rabbit. The one Nathan demonstrated with had been shot in the stomach, so there was a lot of blood. I was interested to see how to do this, and what to do in which order, however the quantity of blood in the demonstration hare made me take the decision that yes, I was glad I knew what to do, but no, I didn’t need to have a go myself. Fortunately nobody made me feel uncomfortable for having made this decision. (My partner almost wobbled, but decided he would forever be cross with himself if he didn't try it, and ended up with a perfectly prepared rabbit)
Once all the brave people had prepared their rabbits, and after a brief coffee break, we had a cookery demonstration. We were shown how to make a game terrine; game pies (along the Melton Mowbray pork pie lines); jugged hare and a pigeon salad. It was fascinating to learn about different cookery techniques, and to have certain myths dispelled. Also, it was amazing to be in such a small group being taught by someone so passionate about what they do.
Lunch followed – the pigeon salad and the game terrine making up the starter, with jugged hare and some pies (beef, chicken and mushroom or cheese and potato – no game there), along with seasonal vegetables providing the main course. All of this was washed down with a glass or two of Chateauneuf du Pape (Le Palais des Papes Ogier), and accompanied by lively chat and great company.
While I appreciate that eating game is not to everyone’s taste, and many people don’t like to connect the meat they eat with the animal it came from, I found this to be a wonderfully informative day, which enabled me and my partner to see we don’t need to rely on supermarkets for any meat – we can use local butchers, gamekeepers or even, if need be, catch it ourself.


